Baja California and a week with some of my best friends in Mexico City—how could I possibly say no?
Below is an updated version of an article I originally wrote for Icon El País, published in their October 2021 issue. It features my favourite spots in Mexico City for food, drinks, and a bit of arts and culture.
Hope you enjoy.
Besos,
Santi
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Expendio de Maíz
One of the best discoveries from our trip, and completely by chance—no one recommended it. It’s a tiny cantina with just a little terrace and five tables. There’s no menu; they use organic ingredients and celebrate corn in all its forms. The food is absolutely incredible. They serve ‘surprise’ dishes, so you just need to let them know if you’ve got any allergies or don’t fancy chapulines (that’s grasshoppers).
Afterwards, take a stroll over to Colonia Condesa and stop at Churrería El Moro or Nevería Roxy—or pop into El Parnita or Páramo (on the same street) for a ‘drinkesito’.
Av. Yucatán 84, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Maizajo Taquería
Culinary Nirvana. A unique fusion of tradition and innovation. What began as a tortilla shop and corn research center has evolved into a taco stand that operates on a first-come, first-served basis. The wait is part of the experience—watch the taqueros in action, and build up your appetite. Don’t miss their famous Taco Campechano with Rib Eye. I also recommend trying one costra-style (griddled cheese on top—so good).
Speaking about tacos- Orinoco and El Califa are often called ‘los tacos fresas’ (bougie in Mexican slang) However, when I visited, I had absolutely no complaints so don’t feel bad if you go there! They are also very good. From the same owners of Orinoco you can also try Canton Mexicali 廣東墨西加利, the equivalent of bougie Mexican-Chinese food, delicious.
If you’re visiting during lunchtime, hop in an Uber and head to Barragán’s Convento de las Capuchinas, which is, in my opinion, his most beautiful work. You’ll need to call ahead and be a bit persistent to get in. Before you leave, you can buy a jar of homemade honey from the nuns.
Fernando Montes de Oca 113, Colonia Condesa, Cuauhtémoc, 06140 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Contramar
An absolute must in CDMX—always buzzing with energy. The tuna tacos and tuna tostadas are the stars of the show—they practically melt in your mouth.
If you’re a fan of Gabriela Cámara’s work, make sure to try Castacán as well. The menu features tacos, tortas, and starters inspired by castacán (crispy pork belly).
Beforehand, stop by Galería Mascota to check out a contemporary art exhibition.
Calle de Durango 200, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Máximo Bistrot
A warehouse-style space in Roma that’s still cosy—perfect for dinner and sharing a few dishes. It’s right next to the OMR Gallery and Casa Bosques, an art and design bookshop.
Av. Álvaro Obregón 65 Bis, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Le Tachinomi Desu
A Japanese standing bar serving natural wines and sake. It’s tiny, and they only serve dinner with a daily menu. My favourites? The fried chicken (deli), truffle fries, and omurice.
Beforehand, visit Javier Senosiain’s Casa Orgánica and, on your way back, pass by Barragán and Mathias Goeritz’s Satellite Towers.
Rio Pánuco 132-1a, Cuauhtémoc, 06500 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Amanda Manda
One of my faves in la Roma. Amanda cooks up her specialities in a laid-back, communal setting. The project was designed by artist and architect Luis Úrculo and produced by creative studio Niños Héroes, based between Mexico City and Madrid.
The quesadillas, tacos, green bean salad, and sesame schnitzel are all very good. And if you’re feeling nostalgic (Spanish only), Amanda’s potato salad and tortilla are perfection.
Afterwards, wander down to Casa Gilardi (Barragán) and the Kurimanzutto Gallery.
Acapulco #13, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Paris 16 Bistró
A small hidden restaurant that has been open for more than 25 years. Located on the ground floor of one of Mario Pani’s iconic buildings on Paseo de la Reforma, this modest spot never disappoints. Whether you opt for the soup of the day, their sandwiches, or their veal milanesas—served with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach—you’ll leave satisfied. Everything is absolutely delicious (but order the milanesa for me please!!)
Before you can pop by Ago Projects, a nearby gallery for collectible design and art.
Avenida Paseo de la Reforma 368, Juárez, Mexico City, Mexico 06600
Cariñito Tacos
This trendy street-side taco spot is all about pork belly tacos with a Southeast Asian twist. They serve them straight out of a window and only have four on the menu (I still think about their Cantonese one). They regularly invite chefs from around the world to add to the menu.
I you are hungry for more tacos also check out Siembra Taqueria in Polanco and Tacos Atarantados in la Roma.
I’d finish things off at Helados Cometa (just two blocks away) with a honey, yoghurt, and pistachio ice cream—or maybe peanut and sesame.
Guanajuato 53, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
La Ventana del Ticuchi
Inspired by Oaxacan cuisine, this spot serves almost entirely veggie dishes from a little window. Think esquites tamales (so good), tacos, aguas frescas, artisanal mezcal, and hearty stews.
Finish off with an ice cream again from Nevería Roxy but in Polanco, visit the Museo Jumex, or stroll through Chapultepec Park—and if you’re feeling naughty, grab some doricolos from a street vendor.
Petrarca 254, Polanco V Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Molino El Pujol
The fast-food spin-off of El Pujol (a top fine-dining spot in Polanco). The highlights? The corn on the cob with chicatana ant mayo and the avocado tacos. You can even buy tortillas to take home or give as a gift.
Afterwards, you can visit design gallery Masa or grab an Uber to UNAM’s sculpture park, visit the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Studio Museum, and finish the night with dinner at San Ángel Inn.
Gral. Benjamín Hill 146, Hipódromo Condesa, Cuauhtémoc, 06100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México.
Pizza Félix
My favourite Neapolitan pizzas in CDMX. They’ve got a lovely terrace, and it’s perfect for a drink after dinner. Also, their branding is cute—I begged for a T-shirt until I got one, haha. If there’s no space, try Lardo, and if you’re up for more drinks, pop over to Casa Franca.
Av. Álvaro Obregón 64, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Panadería Rosetta
Sure, it might be a bit of a touristy spot, but you have to try the guava roll—it’s delicious. You can enjoy it while heading to the Travesía Cuatro Gallery for an exhibition. (You can also go to Niddo or Café Milou for breakfast, both are nearby)
They also have an Italian restaurant under the same name (perfect for dinner on the terrace). Ideal if you need a break from all the corn and fancy some pasta.
Colima 179, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, México
Regarding Baja California, I have just a few tips after spending a day in La Paz before boarding our boat to the Sea of Cortez.
To stay: Baja Club Hotel
To eat:
-Bismarkcito (classic seafood tacos)
-La Casa Madre (Italian cuisine)
-Baja Camarón Shrimp & Beer (small plates, tacos and an amazing sunset spot)
-Nevería y Paletería La Fuente (Ice cream)
And buy a tie-dye t-shirt at one of the gift shops along the waterfront!